Adam Ondra is one of the greatest rock climbers in the world

Adam Ondra is an absolute BEAST!

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Adam Ondra is pure beast mode

Also master of his body and alot of fun to watch

Adam Ondra is pure beast mode
[Photo] Heinz Zak and Black Diamond Equipment
I love rock climbing. I'm not great by any measure and my climbing has been 99.5% indoor but it's the most fun hobby I've ever had. When you go to a climbing gym or an outdoor crag just watching others climb is fun.

When you get to the level of the greatest climbers in the world, like Alex Hunnold, Tommy Caldwell and Ashima Shiraishi (as a small sample) you see a dedication to the sport, discipline, training and focus that inspires you to do more with whatever it is that makes your heart sing. As you watch a movie like the beautiful "The Dawn Wall" you think "I've never worked as hard at anything as Tommy Caldwell did for the Dawn Wall project." (Definitely not dismissing Kevin Jorgenson's efforts but even he will tell you The Dawn Wall was Tommy's project.)

Recently I've begun following Adam Ondra. He is pure BEAST MODE.

He of crazy hair and equally crazy screaming is a master of his body. As you watch this video, you're left in awe of his strength, flexibility, endurance and proprioception.

Rock climbing has a rating system that goes from 5.1 (pure beginner) to this climb, Silence, a crag in Flatanger, Norway, which is proposed as a 5.15d putting it in the rare company of... NOTHING! This would be the first route of this difficulty ever.

There are a couple of moments in the video that were the inspiration for this post:

3:54 - Adam "rests" with the most insane upside down knee bar imaginable. It's kind of mind blowing. (It's the featured image above)

9:35 - Adam is on the ground practicing a body (and mind) bending contortion that he needs to use to complete one of the crux moves (A "crux" is the most difficult section of a route). Take note of this for later.

11:00 - The start of the unique portion of the Silence climb. It shares it's beginning with another route (Change) Adam had completed years before.

11:24 - 11:52 - This is the crux. As I watched I thought "Oh lordi! Should he be doing that to his body?!?!" It is CRAZY!! Here is Adam's description of this section:

The strangest moves are on the V15 crux 1, which is very physical, but the most precision-demanding climbing I have ever seen in my life. It is very hard to turn upside down, “stab” my left foot super high into the crack, doing it 100-percent precisely, finish the sequence with this foot jam, doing the last move while doing the most extreme drop-knee I have ever done, which feel like it would tear my knee and back apart.

12:03 - The end of the crux and an even crazier knee bar "rest".

12:06 - Prepare for screaming. Adam is kind of famous for screaming when he climbs.

14:00 - Adam walks along the ceiling. Not nearly as demanding as the crux but so cool!

Enjoy and be awed!

Elastic tubing exercises

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Chest press

Rowing

Standing rotations

Set up: wrap one end of the tubing around the door knob.

Hamstring curls

Setup for hamstring curls and leg extension

 

Leg extension

Gyrotonic trainer and world class athlete Melanie Rinaldi

The interview series: Gyrotonic trainer & athlete Melanie Rinaldi

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To train athletes you need to think like and athlete

An interview with GYROTONIC® trainer Melanie Rinaldi

When any fitness professional begins training a new client we need to find out their current condition, fitness history and their goals. For most of us our clients’ goals are fairly simple: I want to lose some weight; I want to improve my golf game; I want to get rid of this nagging back pain. But when you’re training Olympic level or professional athletes, the expectations from the client are higher and more specific.

Trainer Melanie Rinaldi is a former diver on the Canadian national team and an NCAA competitive diver. She comes from a background of high performance athletics so she understands the mindset of these types of athletes. And that shows in her intake process. I sat down with Melanie at her Miami studio and talked story.


If you’re in Miami or headed toward it, get in touch with Melanie and her great studio Rinaldi Performance.

You can also follow Rinaldi Performance through Facebook and Instagram.

 

Home › GYROTONIC® training › Melanie Rinaldi interview

GYROTONIC is a registered trademark of Gyrotonic Sales Corp and is used with their permission.

Tennis players can rehab from injuries using Gyrotonic training

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Tennis player Trevor Taylor talks about GYROTONIC® training.

Competitive athlete Trevor Taylor shares how the Gyrotonic Method has helped him recover from shoulder and hip surgeries, prevent future injuries, and improve his tennis game.

Great  video from my friends at GYROTONIC® Coral Gables.

 

Home › GYROTONIC® training › Tennis

GYROTONIC is a registered trademark of Gyrotonic Sales Corp and is used with their permission.

Gyrotonic Master Trainer and physical therapist Justine Bernard

Get to know Gyrotonic Master Trainer & physical therapist Justine Bernard

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An interview with GYROTONIC® Master Trainer Justine Bernard

Now that I’m traveling to lead the Wingmaster Course, I’m getting the opportunity to meet more trainers and Master Trainers who I’ve known only through social media. This gives me a chance to change my interviews from Skype based to in person. First up on that list, GYROTONIC® Master Trainer and Phyiscal Therapist Justine Bernard.

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If you are a frequent flyer, you can take steps to reduce your carbon footprint.

Reduce your carbon footprint. Good for the earth, good for you.

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My carbon footprint has been growing.

And there is something I (and you) can do to fix that.

Air travel lays down a heavy carbon footprintLike most people I am concerned about the health of our planet and the effects of human activity on the environment. While there is always room for improvement, I do what I can when at home. However with the dramatic increase in air travel that is a necessary part of teaching the Wingmaster Course, my carbon footprint has grown greatly.

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The Roundup - Quinoa salad, breath affects fear and grab a medicine ball.

The Roundup – Quinoa salad, breath affects fear and grab a medicine ball.

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The Roundup – Quinoa salad, breath affects fear and grab a medicine ball.

It was definitely time to add some new recipes to my home cooking.

We cook most of our meals at home and largely from scratch. We also eat primarily vegetarian at home. We save our meat eating for going out.

Smoky Quinoa and Black Bean salad recipe from Budget BytesMaybe you’re like us. You have a small group of meals that you cook over and over. Humans, as all other species, are primarily creatures of habit. That’s got it’s benefits. Survival is essentially having the right group of habits. But for those species with higher brain function, basically humans, that can make like boring!

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How to Prioritize Workouts when Work Life Gets Tough

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Make space in your busy day to get some movement

Guest post by Vanessa Davis

We all want to look fit and feel amazing in our bodies, but that’s easier said than done when your schedule is constantly packed. Be it work and deadlines, or spending time with family and friends, the truth is we don’t find a lot of time to dedicate to our physical health, and sometimes we don’t try too hard to do so. However, it is of vital importance to have a time slot during which you can do things for yourself, and that includes exercising as well. Even if working out isn’t your favorite thing, you can’t deny the benefits you get from it which is why it’s important to talk about how to prioritize workouts when work life gets tough.

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Is bulletproof coffee worth all the hype?

Why bulletproof coffee is not miraculous for weight loss.

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The ketogenic diet, coconut oil & bulletproof coffee: what they have in common, and why they’re not miraculous for weight loss

The ketogenic diet and bulletproof coffee are all the rage, the hot topic of discussion on social media and in gyms. Is there any validity to the big bulletproof fad? In this guest post, registered dietitian Lindsay Orbeta, MS, RD, CSSD, gives us some real scientific information on bulletproof coffee, coconut oil and a real ketogenic diet.

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Why are you doing Gyrotonic training?

Know your “why”. It’s the only real source of power.

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Have you thought about why you’re doing the exercise you’re doing?

The Merovingian understood that you need to know your why.

“Our only hope, our only peace is to understand it, to understand the `why.’ `Why’ is what separates us from them, you from me. `Why’ is the only real source of power, without it you are powerless.”
– The Merovingian

Yes, I’m a giant nerd for quoting The Matrix Reloaded but it’s a good quote and one that I totally agree with. Why do you do what you do?

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