Adam Ondra is one of the greatest rock climbers in the world

Adam Ondra is an absolute BEAST!

Adam Ondra is pure beast mode

Also master of his body and alot of fun to watch

Adam Ondra is pure beast mode
[Photo] Heinz Zak and Black Diamond Equipment
I love rock climbing. I'm not great by any measure and my climbing has been 99.5% indoor but it's the most fun hobby I've ever had. When you go to a climbing gym or an outdoor crag just watching others climb is fun.

When you get to the level of the greatest climbers in the world, like Alex Hunnold, Tommy Caldwell and Ashima Shiraishi (as a small sample) you see a dedication to the sport, discipline, training and focus that inspires you to do more with whatever it is that makes your heart sing. As you watch a movie like the beautiful "The Dawn Wall" you think "I've never worked as hard at anything as Tommy Caldwell did for the Dawn Wall project." (Definitely not dismissing Kevin Jorgenson's efforts but even he will tell you The Dawn Wall was Tommy's project.)

Recently I've begun following Adam Ondra. He is pure BEAST MODE.

He of crazy hair and equally crazy screaming is a master of his body. As you watch this video, you're left in awe of his strength, flexibility, endurance and proprioception.

Rock climbing has a rating system that goes from 5.1 (pure beginner) to this climb, Silence, a crag in Flatanger, Norway, which is proposed as a 5.15d putting it in the rare company of... NOTHING! This would be the first route of this difficulty ever.

There are a couple of moments in the video that were the inspiration for this post:

3:54 - Adam "rests" with the most insane upside down knee bar imaginable. It's kind of mind blowing. (It's the featured image above)

9:35 - Adam is on the ground practicing a body (and mind) bending contortion that he needs to use to complete one of the crux moves (A "crux" is the most difficult section of a route). Take note of this for later.

11:00 - The start of the unique portion of the Silence climb. It shares it's beginning with another route (Change) Adam had completed years before.

11:24 - 11:52 - This is the crux. As I watched I thought "Oh lordi! Should he be doing that to his body?!?!" It is CRAZY!! Here is Adam's description of this section:

The strangest moves are on the V15 crux 1, which is very physical, but the most precision-demanding climbing I have ever seen in my life. It is very hard to turn upside down, “stab” my left foot super high into the crack, doing it 100-percent precisely, finish the sequence with this foot jam, doing the last move while doing the most extreme drop-knee I have ever done, which feel like it would tear my knee and back apart.

12:03 - The end of the crux and an even crazier knee bar "rest".

12:06 - Prepare for screaming. Adam is kind of famous for screaming when he climbs.

14:00 - Adam walks along the ceiling. Not nearly as demanding as the crux but so cool!

Enjoy and be awed!

Gyrotonic trainer and world class athlete Melanie Rinaldi

The interview series: Gyrotonic trainer & athlete Melanie Rinaldi

To train athletes you need to think like and athlete

An interview with GYROTONIC® trainer Melanie Rinaldi

When any fitness professional begins training a new client we need to find out their current condition, fitness history and their goals. For most of us our clients’ goals are fairly simple: I want to lose some weight; I want to improve my golf game; I want to get rid of this nagging back pain. But when you’re training Olympic level or professional athletes, the expectations from the client are higher and more specific.

Trainer Melanie Rinaldi is a former diver on the Canadian national team and an NCAA competitive diver. She comes from a background of high performance athletics so she understands the mindset of these types of athletes. And that shows in her intake process. I sat down with Melanie at her Miami studio and talked story.


If you’re in Miami or headed toward it, get in touch with Melanie and her great studio Rinaldi Performance.

You can also follow Rinaldi Performance through Facebook and Instagram.

 

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GYROTONIC is a registered trademark of Gyrotonic Sales Corp and is used with their permission.

Gyrotonic Master Trainer and physical therapist Justine Bernard

Get to know Gyrotonic Master Trainer & physical therapist Justine Bernard

An interview with GYROTONIC® Master Trainer Justine Bernard

Now that I’m traveling to lead the Wingmaster Course, I’m getting the opportunity to meet more trainers and Master Trainers who I’ve known only through social media. This gives me a chance to change my interviews from Skype based to in person. First up on that list, GYROTONIC® Master Trainer and Phyiscal Therapist Justine Bernard.

Read moreGet to know Gyrotonic Master Trainer & physical therapist Justine Bernard

The interview series: Gyrotonic trainer Patty Nutchanart

Introducing Patty Nutchanart, GYROTONIC® trainer in Thailand

Patty Nutchanart training at her studioIn my use of Instagram I regularly search for new posts from GYROTONIC® trainers or clients, basically anything tagged #gyrotonic. One day I saw this excellent photo from a studio in Thailand. There are only 2 Gyrotonic studios in all of Thailand so I decided to reach out to studio owner Patty Nutchanart,

Read moreThe interview series: Gyrotonic trainer Patty Nutchanart

The most amazing stunt cycling you’ll see, Danny MacAskill

Stunt cycling that will blow your mind.

Seriously… riding a moving wheel of hay??

I ride my bike a decent amount but I’m much more of a road/street cyclist. I’m not the off road, mountain biking type.

Danny MacAskill is. He’s probably the best at it. I’ve watched several of his creative & fun stunt cycling videos and they’re always a big “WOW”. As you watch his videos, you think “Yeah, but he had to do multiple takes to get it right,” and you’d be correct.

Read moreThe most amazing stunt cycling you’ll see, Danny MacAskill

In GYROKINESIS, be water

Quick tip: When moving in Gyrokinesis class, be water, my friend

Water can flow or it can crash. Be water, my friend.

Flowing water created the Horseshoe CanyonWater and it’s fluidity are queues we use frequently in GYROKINESIS®. While we want to, and will, increase the strength of our muscles and remove tightness and musculotendinous adhesions through taking Gyrokinesis classes, we want to do it without struggle, almost without effort, through the flow of the motion.

Read moreQuick tip: When moving in Gyrokinesis class, be water, my friend

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